Easter in Peru

Now we are in Peru after a short flight from Quito. Our rest day in Quito was spent looking for a laundry (unsuccessful--so back to the bathroom sink to rinse the salt of Galapagos out of our clothes) , and working out how to send a parcel from Ecuador ( successful eventually after a lot of red tape---and parcel tape!) It´s our fifth parcel so far so hope they are winging their way to Mhairi. It´s the only way to combine shopping with travelling light.

Lima was as busy as we expected but we were only there overnight before flying to Arequipa. We were most amused by the amount of people carrying boxes of Dunkin Donuts on board. The people at the airport welcoming the incoming flight with balloons and banners were obviously waiting for their next delivery of Dunkin Donuts.

Our hotel in Arequipa was described as Colonial/ Baroque and it was certainly very splendid with antique furnishings, each room different. We opted for the library room but unfortunately were too busy or too tired to actually read any of the excellent choice of travel books. We explored the very beautiful and old Santa Catalina Monastery which covers about five acres. It´s a very peaceful place, more spacious than we would have thought but originally the nuns who lived there could take a servant or even a slave with them. It also had splendid views towards El Misti--very aptly named as by late morning the mountain seemed to float in mid-air.



In the afternoon we took a bus tour of Arequipa and district, learning about the crops grown there, the Inca terraces which are still in use, and visiting a couple of old buildings. On Good Friday there were special celebrations at the Cathedral and in the main square. We decided to eat overlooking the square so saw the splendour of the Easter candlelit procession with all the local churches parading figures, mostly of the Virgin Mary dressed Spanish style with mantillas.

Next day it was up early (again) for the bus to Puno on Lake Titicaca. This took about 6 hours, a comfortable ride on a newish highway with snacks provided by the smartly dressed stewardesses. Puno is nearly 4000 metres high so we´ve been taking the tablets and drinking coca tea. The effects of altitude sickness have been much less marked than in Quito.

Another early start was required to take a boat trip to the Uros islands--a huge tick in Norma´s case ever since she read about Thor Heyerdahl and the Kontiki, as he came here to learn how to build reed boats. We had a very informative guide and can now tell you how to build a floating island--first you take a few tons of totora reeds......!

There followed a two hour crossing to Taquile, a real island which was equally if not more interesting. The 2000 people live on a beautiful fertile island and as well as subsistence farming they produce fantastic craft work for themselves as well as to sell to tourists. Women spin using a drop spindle as they walk along and then produce very fine woven goods. The men do the knitting--absolutely superb articles, particularly hats---red santa claus type hats with patterns similar to Fair Isle. We could go on about Taquile and its hats forever but will save further details for the lecture tour.

Just one wee story--when we were in the square they were celebrating Easter Sunday in the Catholic Church. When the important people of the island---they wear black hats--came out of the church they were heading up to the top of the island to make an offering to Pachamama--Mother Earth to the pre Inca people. This might be called keeping a foot in both camps!




More pictures when we get a better internet connection. Cusco and Machu Picchu next!